I have been working sporadically on a MAACA member's 1964 Rialto gambling/payout machine, during my very limited spare time in the last few weeks. Rialto is an EM machine working on 220VAC. Precision design from Germany. It has a' score-motor' type with cams and switches, relays, steppers/cams, and a payout tube.
In addition to disconnected power wires (fixed & cleaned-up), incorrectly adjusted switches (fixed) and an internally 'welded' contact in the coin microswitch (mostly fixed/one part bypassed), I could not understand why the 220V payout solenoid under the payout tube would not activate with the two series-switches for it were closed. The payout solenoid coil is good.
With the machine unplugged from the 110V-220V doubler transformer, I used my DMM on continuity and traced the wires. The open circuit was at the payout relay switch, even with the switch closed and flexstoned.
After dismantling the switch, here's the reason - one blade was broken within the stack and no longer making contact to its lug! That was an interesting curve ball - issue was not visible until dismantling the switch. Or Ohm'ing it with contact closed (was open circuit).
Good, one more thing fixed - a few issues left.
Re: 1964 Rialto German machine - interesting issue resolved
Posted: Mon Jul 29, 2019 8:35 am
Nice fix Sylvain.
Re: 1964 Rialto German machine - interesting issue resolved
Posted: Mon Jul 29, 2019 1:21 pm
Thanks, I don't think I've ever seen a busted switch inside a stack before.
Following suggestion of the machine's owner, Here's is a quick repair log update/progress on this machine. There is not much information about this particular machine on the web, so let's document some info here!
The machine works with original 10 Pf coins- luckily it is about the same size and weight as our CDN nickels, so the simple coin acceptor works with our own local currency.
After inserting a coin, the 'score motor' starts and a ball is served at the bottom. It can be manually launched if acting quickly, or it will be auto-launched. Three balls are served for a game. The goal is to complete a column of the same number, 1, 2, 3 or 4 for a win, as shown on the front glass of the machine. With a win, coins are payed-out from an internal payout tube.
Given these machine require 220VAC 50Hz as supply, I ordered a 115-230V transformer for it while studying the German schematics.
While a tad more than 220V volt, 230V is still safe to operate the machine at that voltage, at least for a short time. With our North American AC supply at 60Hz, this also makes the 'score motor' turn a bit faster than originally designed. Typically this causes no real issue except making the machine a bit faster - like for a lot of the European pinball machines designed for 50Hz and imported/operated here.
These transformers are available from Amazon & Ebay, for various capacities. I estimated a 300W unit would be sufficient:
First, I had to identify the disconnected wires at the supply connector, and make it a lot more safe, and cleaner. Thankfully, the schematics on the web for a similar machine was useful - it is marked-up with wire colors.
Primary supply is 220V, which operates the internal power transformer, score motor, payout solenoid and ball kicker coils. The internal transformer's secondary provides 30V to the selenium rectifier, which supply power to the 1,2,3,4 steppers and a few other relays, and 12V for bulbs. The previous owner might have given-up, trying to use 115VAC supply... Which is not enough to make the score motor turn.
I also confirmed that the original red selenium rectifier next to the transformer was still good and safe, so decided to keep it original, plus safer with addition of fuses on the supply line.
Given selenium rectifiers typically have an internal resistance higher than our modern bridge rectifiers, and given that the machine would be operated at a slightly higher supply voltage than original 220V, I felt this was yet another good reason to keep the original selenium rectifier in-place.
Initial wiring with disconnect wires:
After identification of wires, replacement of AC power cord, addition of fuses, and clean-up:
The bulbs are nothing like our usual bulbs here - they look like miniature fuses, a bit like some classic hi-fi receivers used to light-up their dials. In fact, there is still an original bulb included in the machine, in its 'goodie bag' stapled at the bottom left inside rear corner!
Next issue is that dropping a coin would not start the score motor turning anymore, now that the switches gap had been fixed. I then realized that the coin microswitch was defective - the internal contact stayed at its resting position, even when mechanically operated.
I tried searching for a suitable replacement microswitch in my spare parts boxes, and on-line incl. eBay, to no avail.
...So, decided to remove the microswitch from the machine and drill the rivets to open its cover. The issue was that the contact was 'welded' in place and would not move.
I was able to get it freed-up, then used a flexstone, and just a tad of De-Oxit to make the microswitch work, at least in the coin detected position. Then used small screws and nuts to close the original cover.
The rest position contact is only used for an in-series switch with the payout relay contact, so I bypassed that position with a soldered wire for now, given that contact was and still is not great (e.g. pitted):
Next issue - No payout - From a quick visual, it was easy to find-out that the payout relay had been broken in the past, e.g. it no longer had its bakelite part on its actuator, to actuate the contact:
Again, finding a suitable or original replacement relay would be difficult, and I wanted to keep the machine as close to original as possible. So, using an old radio antenna connector piece, I 'manufactured' a new part from it to fit the relay armature so that it could operate its contact:
With the above payout relay switch fixed, now there is payout! And machine stops after its cycle.
But - lights stayed on - they should turn OFF after a game. Issue was a bent score motor switch actuator on cam#1 - someone had mangled it in the past, making the score motor stop too soon, because of the wrong angle of the switch actuator on that cam.
Next 'issue': why is the ball auto-launched every time, instead of waiting for the player to launch it? I could not find the answer by re-checking contact gaps and the schematics - all pointed to this being normal. But this did not agree with the youtube video of the 1959 Bingolett...
"Der Rialto spielt auch selbst (automatischer Abschuß), wenn man nicht schnell genug am Abzug die Kugel losschießt, also einfach nur Geld einwerfen reicht schon!" Translation from Google: "The Rialto also plays itself (automatic kill), if you do not shoot fast enough at the trigger the ball, so just throw in money is enough!"
I now feel more confident that the current behavior is normal - plus the machine plays a bit faster, being operated at 60Hz instead of original 50Hz... So you have to be quick if you want to launch the ball manually instead of the machine!
sylvain wrote:I now feel more confident that the current behavior is normal - plus the machine plays a bit faster, being operated at 60Hz instead of original 50Hz... So you have to be quick if you want to launch the ball manually instead of the machine!
Is there any easy bypass disable the auto launch? Obviously just disconnecting the solenoid, but besides that? If it was disabled it would play the same as bingolette. Maybe one day I'll put in a toggle switch.