Better alternative for removing RUST

[GILV]

Hi everyone.
I used Evapo-rust for over 10 years for removing rust from metal parts on pins and mopeds but now I found something that works better than Evaporust and is cheaper as well.
The best price I found for Evaporust, which, by the way is no longer available in the province of Quebec for now 6 years , was Amazon at 120$ for a 20 Liters, well I got 20 gallons worth of another stuff for about the same price, it's a powder that you delute in water, 1 cup of powder for 4 liters of water.
I received my first order last week, tried it the same day, what ever took 12 hours for Evaporust to remove , takes 3 to 4 hours with this product, I'm quite satisfied and wanted to share with those restoration geeks, like me.
In my honest opinion, this stuff is the most usefull pruduct for anyone who restores pins, second after is a good metal polishing kit.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/262533301609?_ ... BMxvyghqJf

[GILV]

.....Plus, you can keep it in a container and use it again and again just like Evaporust.

[redketchup]

https://www.homedepot.ca/produit/krud-k ... 1001002124

i'm really impressed with this one also

[GILV]

https://www.homedepot.ca/produit/krud-k ... 1001002124

i'm really impressed with this one also

How do you work with it?

[redketchup]

https://www.homedepot.ca/produit/krud-k ... 1001002124

i'm really impressed with this one also

How do you work with it?

I just spray it on my part... it's like a gel... use it for bolt and small part

[cap]

I've had good result with oxalic acid. Another name for it is lemon salt. You have to order it through your pharmacist. My local pharmacy wanted an arm an a leg for it, but the Walmart pharmacy offered a 500g bottle for $18 three years ago. You need 15g per gallon. When you are done, you neutralize it with baking soda and you can then dump it safely.

[GILV]

I've had good result with oxalic acid. Another name for it is lemon salt. You have to order it through your pharmacist. My local pharmacy wanted an arm an a leg for it, but the Walmart pharmacy offered a 500g bottle for $18 three years ago. You need 15g per gallon. When you are done, you neutralize it with baking soda and you can then dump it safely.

Do you to dump it after each soakage?
How long do you soak parts in it to get good results?
For my part, I made 16 liters last week and that 16 liter will last at least 1 year before it get's to weak to go on soaking metal parts in it.
Calculate, 16 liters a year, and that's if I do lots of restoring (a few months of restoring in winter between November and April), so my purchase will last at least 5 years.
I soak large metal parts and heavilly rusted parts as well, would your method work on these?

[cap]

I dumped it after because I was not planning on using it again in the long term. The mixture becomes mixed with rust. It was so cheap, I did not think twice before dumping it.
Yes, you can do large parts if you have a large enough container. You really want the whole part submerged. You will get ugly demarcations that are hard to get rid of if you soak it only part way.
You get impressive results for the price but it does not come out like new. It works better for surface rust. You might want something more powerful for very rusty parts.
I used it on pinball legs for 24h and it worked fine. It did not work to save the levelers. I had to buy new ones, but those are cheap too.
I don't know about your stuff, but Evaporust tends to evaporate so you have to use it in a closed container.
I used oxalic acid in a wallpaper tray with a plastic over it that was not even air tight.
You should use gloves but it's not dangerous if you accidently dip your finger in it.

[GILV]

Interresting.....
Thanks for the tips guys, I appreciate it.

[dr.nybble]

So this eBay powder contains both an acid and a base....and you add water...now my chemistry might be a bit rusty, but ?

My understanding is that Evaporust is a chelating agent, so it doesn't eat away the good metal, just removes the rust. Not sure that is true for some of the other options suggested here -- although it looks like oxalic acid is a chelating agent too.

[GILV]

So this eBay powder contains both an acid and a base....and you add water...now my chemistry might be a bit rusty, but ?

My understanding is that Evaporust is a chelating agent, so it doesn't eat away the good metal, just removes the rust. Not sure that is true for some of the other options suggested here -- although it looks like oxalic acid is a chelating agent too.

No, it's exactly the same thing as Evaprust except with Evaporust you pay for water (it logical, water wheighs a lot, so transport WILL affect the price), with this product, it acts the same way with metal but you add the water yourself, think of it as a powdered Evaporust (which in fact, it is).
Evaporust is already a water based rust remover, this product as well, it's safe for skin, just like Evaporust (allthough I rather wear gloves).
Take it or leave it, I've had better results than Evaporust (and I've used Evaporust for the past 10 years) with this product for 10 times less money, I'm satisfied so I just wanted to share.

[Mindstorm88]

That's what i use https://ardec.ca/p/140/acide-oxalique does a great job on chrome legs, Sparky posted on it many years ago ..

[semicolin]

I don't trust any concentrated industrial product where you can't get the name of the manufacturer and can't obtain the SDS from the vendor/distributor.

Cancer sucks, and if I can't know what's in something then it stays on the shelf.

[GILV]

I don't trust any concentrated industrial product where you can't get the name of the manufacturer and can't obtain the SDS from the vendor/distributor.

Cancer sucks, and if I can't know what's in something then it stays on the shelf.

Good point, but why are you concerned with cancer?
Wear gloves, or is it deeper or something else I did'nt catch?

[semicolin]

I work with chemicals a lot, and I'm a workplace safety trainer. If I can't see an SDS, we have to assume the worst until proven otherwise. That's especially true with any product with the word "Industrial" in the name. I know too many people that are dead or dying because of exposure to things they thought were safe, without reading the SDS.

First, on gloves: there are cleaning/etching chemicals that you can buy at Home Depot that won't go through nitrile gloves... but they will go through latex and be absorbed through the skin, where they enter the bloodstream and attack your kidneys and liver. The latex gloves even appear undamaged. Not all rubber gloves are the same. Have you ever looked to see what chemicals are in your home, and looked at the data sheet to see what PPE is recommended?

It is not a good idea to assume that this is the same product as Evaporust in powdered form. They both accomplish the same thing - rust removal - but there are many chemicals that can and they all have different effects on the human body, with varying levels of toxicity. Just because something accomplishes the same outcome doesn't mean that it is created equal. The only way to know if this is a chemical equivalent to Evaporust is by looking at the component/CAS list on the SDS sheet for both of them.

Never, ever, ever use an industrial product without reading the SDS first... and if no SDS is available, then don't bother. Life is short enough already.

[GILV]

Thanks for sharing, I apprecate your expertise.
I'll send a message to the seller and will update this thread if I can get the SDS.

[QN]

Randomly came across this video today in the wormhole that is YouTube...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6-MC_ZEXQbw

[GILV]

Randomly came across this video today in the wormhole that is YouTube...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6-MC_ZEXQbw

Thanks for posting, I know this guy does a lot of testing on different products, he's really interresting to watch, I've watched other of his videos.
I'll watch this one some time tonite, I know I'll learn something with him.

[tom_454]

His video confirms my experience with Evaporust. It is a pretty good product. Muriatic is just too harsh and requires more attention or risks damaging parts. Kurd Kutter AR32 adhesive remover is great if you have to remove that black tile adhesive from floor tiles so they make decent products.

[GILV]

His video confirms my experience with Evaporust. It is a pretty good product. Muriatic is just too harsh and requires more attention or risks damaging parts. Kurd Kutter AR32 adhesive remover is great if you have to remove that black tile adhesive from floor tiles so they make decent products.

Plus, Evaporust can be used over and over again, which is not the case with the other products, so cost wise, it's, by far, the cheapest rust remover.
About the product I posted from Ebay, the seller never answered my message, but, I'm continueing to use it on a daily basis on a moped I'm restoring now a days, which is the worst conition moped I've restored in the 30 mopeds I've restored in the past 4 years, and I've never experienced such a good rust removing product, usually the worst part on a moped is the exhaust, it's always deeply rusted and this one is no exception, I have never got a muffler so clean with Evaporust, this thing works, and for a fraction of the price of Evaporust.....

[gmaranda]

Here is an old thread that could be useful.

viewtopic.php?f=22&t=7080&hilit=oxalic+acid

Take care

[gmaranda]

Here is another old thread but in one of the comments I described the mixture.

viewtopic.php?f=3&t=10600&p=91341&hilit ... cid#p91341

I still use this stuff on many items to bring them back to life

Have fun

Take care

[Simson]

Hi everyone.
I used Evapo-rust for over 10 years for removing rust from metal parts on pins and mopeds but now I found something that works better than Evaporust and is cheaper as well.
The best price I found for Evaporust, which, by the way is no longer available in the province of Quebec for now 6 years , was Amazon at 120$ for a 20 Liters, well I got 20 gallons worth of another stuff for about the same price, it's a powder that you delute in water, 1 cup of powder for 4 liters of water.
I received my first order last week, tried it the same day, what ever took 12 hours for Evaporust to remove , takes 3 to 4 hours with this product, I'm quite satisfied and wanted to share with those restoration geeks, like me.
In my honest opinion, this stuff is the most usefull pruduct for anyone who restores pins, second after is a good metal polishing kit.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/262533301609?_ ... BMxvyghqJf

Sorry for bumping this thread.
But what was the product described in the opening post?
The ebay link doesn't work anymore

[GILV]

Hi everyone.
I used Evapo-rust for over 10 years for removing rust from metal parts on pins and mopeds but now I found something that works better than Evaporust and is cheaper as well.
The best price I found for Evaporust, which, by the way is no longer available in the province of Quebec for now 6 years , was Amazon at 120$ for a 20 Liters, well I got 20 gallons worth of another stuff for about the same price, it's a powder that you delute in water, 1 cup of powder for 4 liters of water.
I received my first order last week, tried it the same day, what ever took 12 hours for Evaporust to remove , takes 3 to 4 hours with this product, I'm quite satisfied and wanted to share with those restoration geeks, like me.
In my honest opinion, this stuff is the most usefull pruduct for anyone who restores pins, second after is a good metal polishing kit.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/262533301609?_ ... BMxvyghqJf

Sorry for bumping this thread.
But what was the product described in the opening post?
The ebay link doesn't work anymore

There you go.....
https://www.ebay.com/itm/266295941665?h ... BM3P-Fwdpi

[semicolin]

Any update on an SDS? What actually *is* this product?

I just had the "cancer talk" with my students this evening. Things got heavy.